Sunday 31 May 2009

An interesting stop at the market for Mother

So dear readers, 2 blogs in 2 days ain't bad and hopefully this latest one will bring you almost up to date. After the sanctuary, I guess anything is going to be an anti-climax, however it has been anything but, just different.
Usual breakfast at the Old Clay House before an exchange of presents with Charlio, the 'Mae' of the house(I'd bought some Harrod's jams at the airport), followed by a photo shoot. One strange phenomina in Thailand has been that you see almost every girl do the V Victory sign in photo's. Transpires this means 'Power' and for the Japenese it represents 'Fight' or something after some cult moview. Point being that Charlio in her pictures does the V - quite funny.
Journey north to Chiang Rai was going to be about 3-4 hours and en route we stopped at a quite stunning temple. As Elliot is not here I cannot check the name but locally it was known as the Wat Temple - it was different to everything else in that it was sheer brilliant white and in place of multi coloured reflective glass on every other temple, the glass on here was silver. Imagine this temple in bright sunlight - stunning.
We arived at our new homestay 'The Lazy Moon', so called because the C moon as we see in the northern hemisphere is always on it's back in Thailand. Our hosts were Laetitia and Yui, who it turns out are both travel guides, Yui specialising in trekking and with whom we would trek the next day. They also had a dog called 'dog' (brilliant), cats, 3 ducks (I love ducks) an injured baby falcon, a chicken with 8 chicks and......fighting cocks! More of that in a moment.
We were given the proverbial tour of the viallage and along the way I was introduced to 60' Rice Whysky and after four shots, I was shot. I was strong enough to decline some of the other delicacies and it was funny to see Elliot have a try, after all he has been accepted into the club (previous blog!). We also saw how they grow just about everything from Mango's to Lemongrass to Bergamot and all local fruits in between.
The next day, Yui took us for our Jungle Forest trek, up a mother of a mountain and boy, was it hot and sticky. Along the way, he showed us many different things that were just naked to the eye or unknown. It was like being in Kew gardens.
Lunch was served at the top with a fire we built; chopsticks made from bamboo; mushrooms collected along the way. You get the drift.
After getting home they took us to a local prawn farm for a fantastic feast in the company of ......Karaoke parties. They love it.
Next day, was a bit of a wash out as the weather closed in. We were due to go to Fu Chi Fa, which is their Stonehenge/Solstice as 50k people descend there on New Years Eve to watch the sunrise. The climb was huge so I bet the effect would have been brilliant - had we been able to see through the clouds.
Along the way we visited the Hill Tribes who make their living from growing cabbages and lychees. Cabbages at the equivalent of 16p a kilo and lychees for 22p. You ain't gonna get rich up here. Some of the people were in traditional dress which was nice and they still worked the fields in the rain. (Another phenomina we have seen is the millions of scooters and people riding them four abreast, including babies and children and, one of the riders, normally the driver holding an umbrella whilst steering , to keep them all dry. Could you imagine that in the UK?
Back down via some waterfalls, heated through thermal rocks. Elliot and Yui went for a swim in the middle of an almighty thunderstorm, which didn't seem to matter but was quite hilarious to the locals.
After lunch and a good soaking, we called in past this market - well this was real 'upcountry' fare with all sorts on show - snakes, frogs - alive and dead - all manner of fish and crabs and meat but the piece de resistance was....Ants. Huge ants that were like a small dog, ok not that big, but not quite the type you clear with stupid ant powder. Anyway, Yui buys a kilo for his Mum who fancied roasting them that night. Seen it all now.
Back at the Homestay we asked to see Yui's fighting cocks, quite beautiful creatures as it turns out. They are bred for Sunday fighting but not as a bloodsport like I was led to believe. There is no sharp spurs etc. and the fights are until one cock decides he has had enough. Huge sums of money are bet on these fights and the Thai's in fact bet on everything. Even the kids are at it with Ants.
If there is one thing I am learning it is that this culture is diverse and strange and beautiful and it hasn't disappointed. You have just got to take it in as one big experience. Tomorrow back to Bangkok to check Elliot in for his flight home. Gonna miss him.....

Saturday 30 May 2009

The bar for best kisser is raised once you have been kissed my Mamie

OMG - OMG - OMG....where do I start. What an amaaaazzzzing experience the elephant sanctuary has turned out to be and I don't know if I will do it justice here.

Some facts first - 95% of the forest in Thailand has been destroyed until 1989 when the government ceased all logging permits. This meant that a large number of elephants that worked in the industry were in effect unemployed and of course a lot of the natural habitat was destroyed. As a consequence only 1500 elephants have survived out of a population of 50,000.

The sanctuary was started in 1995 with only 4 elephants and another strong woman was the creator (what is it with you women:-)). Here name is Lek Chailert. The sanctuary she has built with volunteers along the way is a haven for elephants who have suffered terrible injuries and/or abuse and ignorance through their working lives.

Almost immediately upon arriving, Elliot was taken aside by our guide and taken to see a 1 month old baby, called Fah Mai (born unto this world) and before we knew anything he was sat with Lek (although we didn't know it was her until later) and was playing with this 1 month old, 130kg baby. It was one of the most moving things I have seen and I've captured it on video for Elliot to post later.

The rest of our day involved feeding them and watching a video about the work of the sanctuary. Part of the video showed the horrific suffering elephants still go through today to be broken and in essence obey and rely on their owner. I don't want to describe it on here but if you should ever see an elephant in a street market in BKK, then please rest assured it's journey there, will not have been a nice one.

At the end of the day, we were introduced to some of the 'Mahouts' who provide 24x7 love and friendship to the elephants and in essence become their surrogate (Lex will spend at least 3 months every day with the calf, it's mother and a Mahout - the fact they were there is why Elliot was 'trusted' by the Mother to enter the enclosure).

We then proceeded to the river and spent over an hour bathing and scrubbing them, . Avoiding the poo was a challenge, but hey it was only 'fibre'. Reflecting on the first day it was clear what a wonderful place it was and how the inspiration of one women had created somewhere unique and special.

Dinner that night with the volunteers who were there for longer was good fun and we had a Thai lesson, details on the next days tasks and the proverbial massage. Get this - a deep tissue oil massage for Elliot and I(total 2ish hours) was equivalent of GBP6 and I pay circa GBP60 for an hour in the UK. Good thing is the camp bring in the local villagers to do this, so aiding the local economy again.

Breakfast at 7.00 - clear out the poo - prepare the food (an elphant will consume 300-500ibs of food over an 18 hr day) etc. a normal day but all this before 1000!

We then went on a walk with a small, talkative, tattooed American lady called Georgie who walked us around the forest enclosure introducing us to each elephant and given us a story about each and every one. Very funny and informative.

Something special then happened - Elliot and I were quietly summoned by Lek and this time we both went into the baby enclosure and then we spent over 2 hours with him and his Mother. This thing climbed all over me and it was unbelievable and just an honour to be in the presence of these great animals.

Feeding time again and this time one elephant, Mamie had to 'kiss' Elliot and I for some extra treats. Very funny and Ladies, the bar has been raised, this was a serious kiss.....

For the rest of the afternoon, whilst Elliot hung out with his new best friend 'Lex' I spent the time at the river watching and interacting with the elephants before we both enjoyed our last bath time. What a laugh. What an honour. What a privilage - a great memory for Elliot and I to have forever and should you ever visit Thailand, I urge you to push the boat out and visit this wonderful place. The website is http://www.elephantnaturefoundation.org/

We went back to our Clay House homestay and had a nice meal with the whole family and the next day we departed for the next stage of this journey, to Chiang Rai, which is real country and I've some stories to tell. I'll update the blog with the last 2 days in the North shortly.

Laters dudes

Monday 25 May 2009

Do I have to take off my underwear as well Dad?

It's been a few days since I've written - sorry about that but as expected, internet connections have been few and far between so you're in for a treat (maybe) as I bring you all dear readers up to date with what's new.

We did Bangkok in a day with our illustrious guide 'Tong' visiting The Grand Palace, Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Tong was an interesting and enthusiastic guide, who did the tour guide thing on his day off from working at the Old Bangkok Inn. His eyes were very strange, they were brown and snake like - turns out the latest in contact lens fashion amongst the smart and elite in Bangkok.

As you might expect, the temples were amazing, particularly the Royal Palace, where you learnt that the King is most revered and is the most important person in Thailand and is seen to be a reincarnation of Rama - half man/half bird. Clever guy and if you ever tried to enter into any debate about the King or the Royal Family, there is no comment as they just don't want to disrespect him or them.

That afternoon, I took Elliot for his first massage, which he was quite up for and I duly entered the parlour to be greeted by a bevvy of ladies. We were taken upstairs having chosen what 'style' we would like and escorted into two curtained off areas...and told to strip and given what was a facecloth - hardly a towel and within 2 minutes, a call came out from Elliot "do I have to take off my underwear as well dad?" It's at this juncture dear readers that I am afraid to say I cannot say what followed. What goes on on tour, stays on tour etc. but suffice to say Elliot has become a fully fledged, paid up member of the 'Manhood'....his Grandmother need not worry though ;-)

Next day was a travelling day as we ventured north to Chiang Mai. Met our driver whose name is 'Boy' and it sounds very colonnial every time I have to call his name.

Everything went smoothly and we eventually arrived at our 'Homestay' accomodation called The House of Clay. Driving into the premises and climbing up onto the first floor (exclusively ours) was like entering something between The Rainforest Cafe and the Tiki House in Disney. A magnificent teak building, big spaces and fans everywhere. No aircon here.

We were met by Art, a highly articulate person whose English is as good as anyone we have met so far. Having settled in he took us around his village and of course we were an attraction; this boy with unbelievable thick long hair and his dad with none at all. We walked through this market which was very quaint until much later when we were served a 2hr+ rendition of a local fable.........thank god for the best travel tip mentioned in previous despatches, earplugs. It's at this point I have to admit the second best travel tip, is one I did not follow but it is......a sink plug that you take with you. I've yet to find a sink that had one. Humbled.

Yesterday was spent in around Chiang Mai, the old capital of the province Lan Na and we visited amongst other sights, the Underground Empire of Wang Kum Kiam, only discovered in the late 8 or so years. Very impressive.

Last night we had a traditional Thai cooking lesson from the Mother of the house and it was spot on if I say so myself. Didn't realise vegetarian food could be so interesting. In fact we have done very well on the food front, only going off piste once to have Japanese (in Bangkok), which was fab as it's one of my favourite foods, but outside was an interesting array of women touting their wares to anyone that was interested. The fact I had Elliot with me probably saved me, but watching them tout and shout themselves wasn't pleasant to watch.

Today we've been to a rather large '10 step' waterfall and followed it by doing a White Water raft this afternoon. Both good fun and now we're sat in downtown Chiang Mai ready to eat and it's off to the Elephant Sanctuary tomorrow.

So on that note, I'll love you and leave you - next blog will hopefully give the low down on an amazing experience in the sanctuary but it's all been good so far. Laters dudes

Thursday 21 May 2009

Lobbie Lilliams is alive and well on an island off the coast of Thailand

It's about on Friday21st and I'm sat in a fantastic olde world Bangkok - I'm sure Fu Manchu is going to walk in the door any moment (ok I know he's Chinese but you get my drift). Got here after collecting my son Elliot, who flew here unaccompanied overnight and everything has run smoothly so far, although when I called Tommy (my driver) who was late this morning, and who was due to meet me at Nuan Thip pier on the mainland, he was asleep in the service station. Thailand time...

There is quite a lot to share in this post, not all of it about the location as I want to tell you also about two remarkable women I met two days ago. It's also worth noting that at the time I had just finished reading the Celestine Prophecy, which is quite a famous book, but if you've not read it, it is a story involving as it's central theme that concidences just don't happen - they happen for a reason.

I met a lady called Jane who worked at the hotel. Jane is the name given to her by the hotel owners along with all of the other staff. I first met her when she was part of the group of hotel staff who tried to get me to go out one night, which I declined at the time. Anyway, I was cleaning up on the beach and happened to be at the end where there is a shrine and I saw a lady praying and as she came out, I saw it was Jane. In the next hour or so I discovered that she had been offered up by her Mother to wed a man three times her age. She had her first child at 14 and three in total by the time she was 19. She upped and left with the children at 22 and headed for Bangkok, before eventually ending up at this hotel. She is now 38, self-taught in English and heads up the housekeeping, gardening and spa staff. Her purpose in life is to work to fund the children through University such that they won't have the life she has. A remarkable person.

The next person is a young women called Morgan. I'd noticed her around the previous day or so and she had that aloof air in a Germanic / East European sense (we've spoke about this and she thought I was one of 'those' western men described later). Strange that as I later learnt that her Mother was German and Father Czech! Anyway, I was wondering what a good looking, blonde single women was doing their on her own, so I decided to strike up a conversation (no seedy thoughts please dear readers). Turns out that she did some of her Healthcare degree in Bangkok and whilst travelling came across female Burmese refugees in the North. For whatever reason, they cross the border, in doing so they are in effect persona non gratis and end up in prostitution or some other profession. So Morgan set about an organisation designed to help these women. She has raised money, built a school and is now succussefully helping through education, many of these girls. She even gives them all a mobile phone and speaks to them all individually. She spends about 3 months of the year over here and the rest, fundraising in Washington DC where she now resides. All this and she is only 26....! FYI the web address is www.refugeeducation.com so if you want to send any spare change, I know Morgan would only too gratefully receive it. Another remarkable person.

Both of these experiences have reminded me how in fact almost all of my female friends, many on FB on no doubt reading this, are all strong people who have had a positive effect in one way or another in my life. I thank and salute you all.

I think also about the coincidence and something I've recently begun to think a lot about, is what more I can do to 'give back'. Jane and Morgan particularly, have got me even more determined to do something. Quite what it is yet I don't know, although there is something on the near horizon which I'll share another time.

It's a bit interesting (changing the subject) to see so many western men with Thai women. It's seen in some Thai quarters as a sign of status - surely exploitation of the worst kind though. I personally found it difficult to see, especially when you observe them running to the guys with an ashtray or feeding them at a table. Ditto Men with 'attractive' Thai boys - " we are an open society" was how a local described it to me when I asked how he felt. Make your own minds up.

On a lighter note as my stay at the hotel neared the end, I relented at went to the 'Kalaoke' and sang so many songs I can't tell you. But I clearly made an impression as I had to sing 'Lobbie Lilliams' and Angels on at least 3 occassions and was given copious amounts of Singha beer for the privilage. I was magnificent in my Liam Galagher stance (there were two mic's all adding to the rock god atmosphere) BUT when I did Uptown Girl by Billie Joel only to see all the lyrics had been 'politically corrected', it totally threw me.

One of the staff who was with us was called Sally and had taken a shine to me and was a really sweet girl. Turns out Sally was not what I thought and was in fact my first encounter with a Lady Boy. Her face, voice and mannerisms - well all is not what it seems in Thailand. I'm sure Elliot is going to have quite an interesting couple of days!

So I'm going to leave you dear readers as the rain 'pours' down outside our hotel and we're due to go out to the night market for dinner. Umbrellas won't save us. I'll write again soon ;-)

Monday 18 May 2009

I think I heard cows in the jungle

So my friends back home, I have finally mastered the Thai keyboard and I'm able to give you my second posting.

The flight was easy and quite empty and I caught 2 good films en route, namely The Reader (quite sad and poignant) with Kate Winslett and Ralph Fiennes and Last Chance Harvey with Dustin Hoffman and Emma Thompson (very nice in a Notting Hill way). Flight arived early and my driver, Tommy, was there to greet me and by the time I had got to the car, I knew where he came from, where he lived, what his son was called/how old he was/ what he was going to do etc. This is typical of what I have found already and that is the Thai's are incredibly friendly. I was greeted at the resort by the Manager and a pretty girl serving a gorgeous cocktail and cold towels. Sheer bliss. Dinner that night was 3 beers; Steamed Mussels and a Stir Fried Noodle with Seafood dish - cost $4. You won't get rich here but if you have no money, you can certainly live very well.

It's now day three and I'm staying in a resort called Moo Ban Talay on an island called Ko Samed. The island is about a 3 hour drive south east followed by a 30 minute boat ride.
In the time I have been here I have explored a little to a resort called Had Sai Kaeo (which stands for White Sand Beach) and I think it's the Islands version of Ibiza. A lot of young from Bangkok descend there at the weekend and I happened to be there that evening when there was a Fire Show. It was very entertaining made all the more enjoyable because the beach was transformed in the evening and all the bars laid out mats and sofas you lay down on. It was wonderful.

As the night wore on I received a regular stream of texts advising me of what
was happening with the football and suffice to say the Mighty Reds have won the title but it was strange to be celebrating in a bar full of Thai's with Arsenal and Liverpool shirts on. I was in my element and to their credit, I did not have to buy too many drinks. I don't think that would have happened in the UK at all. Bring on Barcelona - I have my shirt at the ready!

I took the walk home; got lost; found the road but then got snarled at on more than one occasion by big dogs. Anyone who knows me knows how scared of dogs I am so I was just glad to get back alive. Man this place has a lot of dogs!

That night I swore I heard cows in the forest, which backs onto the resort. God it was loud and I will upload the recording another time but it turns out it was.......frogs. Big buggers I bet.

Last two days have helped out around the place cleaning the beach etc. but I've also taken the time to take it all in. There are no TV's, radios etc. More staff than guests at this time of year as we approach the rainy season and the rain has poured on occasion, but the sun has shone as well. The hotel doesn't fly anything in (apart from guests of course); the shower is outside and uses the rainwater and I feel I am doing my bit whilst here

I have a couple more days here before I transfer to Bangkok, where Elliot my son will be joining me before we head north to Chiang Mai and the Elephant sanctuary. I will probably post an update in Bankok and keep watching out for the one liners on Facebook

Wednesday 13 May 2009

Hacking my way to the departure gate

This is an experience I never thought I would ever have, or take, but circumstances have created this opportunity. I won't bore you with the background, but suffice to say, I find myself with some unscheduled time on my hands and decided to do something positive, given the world has gone crazy.

This journey is a bit different - I'm not staying in a Marriot; I'm not travelling in a group; I'm not doing a traditional holiday of any description. What I am doing is travelling 'responsibly'. Ok I do have to leave on a 747 (turn right at the top of the stairs) and I am staying in the odd hotel along the way, but I am primarily living with the locals, thereby giving something back in a 'Fairtrade' kind of way; I will be doing some voluntary work also - in a school (by all accounts I am playing in a school football match, so I have my beautiful Man Utd shirt and I hope the game is on or around the 27th May, which if you didn't know is the date for the Champions League Cup Final. I am sure I can still pull the odd freestyle trick or two after watching Skills Skool every week) and an Elephant sanctuary, where I will be staying with the family and their orphaned elephant they will be caring for. At this time, my son Elliot will have joined me for half-term and he's going to have to sing for his supper, almost literally - we are taking English lessons or something so I will try my hardest to ensure there is no corporate or text speak used!

So you see, it is different. Now the hacking bit - I do seem to have developed a slight chest cold and cough, not in a man or swine flu kinda way. Typical - not sick for years and years and now this. Those mossies will hear me coming from miles away.

I don't know how easy it's going to be to do this blog thing, trekking through jungles etc. but I am confident I will find an Irish bar somewhere - they are just about everywhere in the world, right? Think about it, they really are.

So, I'll send the next update from somewhere far away. It's about 24 hours away until the flight departs but there is a lot to do still.

Please don't be jealous - I never am (yeah right) and if there is an International incident, I plead innocent already. I'm not into sex, drugs or rock 'n' roll, just wanting to help make the world a better place (cue Michael Jackson song).......laters dudes

MJA